HOW THE FRENCH DRESS

The truly French women have a simple but elegant dress on and heels. Always heels. The streets of Paris sound dif than here because of the clicking of high heels everywhere. Their coat if not fur is a beautifully cut wool or amazingly stitched down coat. Nothing like we have here. They are very flattering even tho they are thick with down.  The temperature outside determines the length to knees or the floor. And, no one had a coat that didn’t button all the way down. The winds off the Seine are brutal.  But, alas, only in black, aubergine, black, deep grey, black, dark chocolate, or black.

No turtle necks either!  I brot 3 and saw only one with a zipper on some else. Probably a German skier!  No, they – both men and women – use scarves to wrap up against the cold. Then when they are in a warm room off comes the coat, scarf, and gloves and violá they are perfectly dressed and comfortable.

Shoes and purses are always dark leather. I am sure they knew I was from California with a nylon purse, fabric shoes (but very comfy. My black Sketcher’s Mary Jane Rockers. T U Heather!), dark brown cotton full length but not with buttons all the way down raincoat, great cut velvet in teals scarf (too lightweight), and turtlenecks!  Well, we had the gloves in common. Some wild young gals will have wild tights and/or bright colored gloves. But almost always a dark coat. 

My first day on the Metro it was in the low 40’s F. No long coats. Only 2 hats. Oh dear I am going to be totally out of place! The next day it is in the low 30’s F and out came the long full-length coats and hats. How fun! Always the gloves.  Rain or not.

Also, interesting was fingernails which I could see in stores and restaurants. I only saw one person with manicured nails in a color. The young clerks told me if one wears color it is usually black or white. Dress wise they wear black, tan, aubergine, taupe, and maybe white or deep brown. Of course, 98% have dark brown hair so they look good in those colors. 

Oh the cut of the designs and the quality of the fabrics were wonderful. 

Interesting was the dif in the Metro stops. The train car would change colors as we went from station to station. Some are all black and serious. Some have variety.  The farther out of center the more casual. Of course, Americans are easy to spot with their short baseball type jackets. No baseball hats tho.

When I go back I am still not wearing black!

7 NIGHTS AND 8ish DAYS IN PARIS

Thank you all for your comments, emails, and comments directly to the Blog.

Several asked me to list all the activities I did, so I will try.  This was my very first trip to France, so I used Rick Steve’s Paris book to assist me.  It was most helpful esp. about transportation. I did a lot but no taxi, bus nor train. Next time!

Sunday & Monday – flew to Paris. Lugging my 47# suitcase and carrying my purse and backpack, I took Roissy Bus from airport to Opera House. This was a grand entry along a wide boulevard. It was like an old black and white photograph as all the trees were bare and there was no color of green anywhere. I was surprised having just come from California and my lush green yard.  I stood at the stairs to enter the Opera Metro trying to read the signs in French when someone quickly explained in limited English no tickets were sold at the bottom of those stairs. I needed to go across the street to go down stairs and get my tickets. I had tried at the airport to buy a set of 10 but they were out of tickets. Thank goodness I didn’t have to heave that suitcase, etc. down and back up those stairs. No wonder no one is overweight here. So, I crossed the street and went downstairs to main entrance at the Opera Metro Station, got the cheaper set of 10 tickets and hopped on the Metro. This is a whole new sensation moving rapidly underground. Getting off at École Militaire stop, I then walked several blocks (of course the wrong way at first..) to my hotel on Rue Cler in Arrondissement 7. The hotel is only a double door on the street. After getting into my room and putting my passport and money into the safe, I went onto Rue Cler to check it out and have dinner.

It is after 6 pm by now and dark out, but the street is well lit.  There are Leftover Christmas décor of big swags of lights across the street from building to building. They are not lit here.  Elsewhere in the city they are and it is charming!  By the end of my 7 night visit the swags have been taken down during the night (too many people on the street during the day) and put away for next year.

At a small deli/restaurant with a Greek owner I ate a cheese crêpe, French wine, (He REALLY wanted me to have Greek wine, but I am in France now for my first time!!!), and a fresh blueberry and dark chocolate crêpe for dessert. Yum! It was funny because I ordered the crêpe while standing outside on the street. When I saw the tables inside I asked to go in to eat. The elderly Greek owner became very upset, as he had quoted the price to go of 3€.  To sit and eat is 5€ for a cheese crêpe.  No problem for me to pay more. At the end I noticed he charged me less for the dessert, but he wouldn’t change it.  This was all translated thru another customer. I really do NOT know French and answer in Spanish half the time!

Tuesday  I caught up on sleep walked around Rue Cler Then raced by Metro to my Cooking class across the city. On way home in the dark from Cooking class I stopped at the Grand Palais to check out a rumor my 1 o’clock ticket is for the middle of the night. The Security man was just closing up the exhibit at 6PM. He assured me to come back on Sat.  I was relieved. Closing at 6 tonight. Come back on Saturday. The ticket was for Sat aft at 1:30, I was sure.  Thinking back his English was limited and he didn’t say when to come back on Sat…. Traveled back on the Metro and ate in a restaurant on Rue Cler.

Wednesday  See Wed. Shopping

After that I zipped (35 min.) on 2 dif Metros and walked a few blocks to the Cooking Class for Wine and Cheese Pairing. What a delight!  Chinese lady from Tues class there too.  Loved the champagne paired with pears.  My fav cheese was a fresh goat cheese marinated in Burgundy wine. Must be eaten within 3 weeks. Perfect!! Couldn’t find it to bring home. L

Thursday  Spent more time walking around my neighborhood and then joined up with the Bus Tour, ending with the Seine Dinner Cruise.  Oh, there was a movie crew filming a strange movie on our street. This required everyone to stop moving at intervals. Fun!

Friday  Bus Tour and finding La Coupole Restaurant along the route, after eating late lunch more bus tour until 6. Getting lost Saint Michel area looking for certain dress stores. Hit a cafe/bar. Several Metros and walk to hotel.

Saturday   I spent an hour on the tour bus before arriving at the Grand Palais for the Monet Exhibit (See Sat. Monet Exhibit Finally blog) by 12:30 for 1:30 (heh-heh) ticket. 5+ hours later I catch the last Tour Bus to see the Montmartre area and the Moulin Rouge etc.  The bus ended at Gare du Nord Train Station, which is huge!!  By then it was cold and dark out, so I Metro-ed to the Hard Rock area on Boulevard Montmartre, ate dinner in a cute health food restaurant, found the Hard Rock Café, then Metros-ed over to the other side of the city to the Concord Lafayette Hotel to have a view of the Eiffel Tower and a cosmopolitan to sip. Of course, it was raining coming and going. The 33^rd floor has an expensive bar with a great view. I heard about it in the Cheese and Wine pairing class. Had to go, but it sure felt out of town and not many knew where it was. There was one young Metro worker who told me where to get off. I asked what then? She kept saying I should look around and I would see it. Well, I came up from the Port Dauphine Metro looked around in the drizzle and there was this huge hotel across the boulevard.  It turned out to be easy even in the dark to cross and get into the hotel VERY fancy. Lots of Asians. Lots of furs! Up in the bar, on the cushy couch I enjoyed my Cosmo and was excited to see the flickering lights come on the Eiffel Tower! What a site!  When saturated, I walked back in the drizzle and took 2 Metros back to my stop to walk back to my hotel.   Good thing the hotel didn’t notice I was carrying a Hard Rock Café teddy bear in my bag!  Not too swanky!

Sunday Woke late.  Wandered thru Rue Cler. Disappointed some stores closed early today.  The fish store and vegetable stands were open earlier.  My fav breakfast café wasn’t open so I went to a new one. It is a bar café, so I wasn’t sure what to expect at 1 in the aft for breakfast. I sat on the side next to 2 young ladies. Many kids and families there. I enjoyed watching a group of 8 with several babies. At one point 2 of the men were holding the babies.  Never too noisy.  When I asked for an English menu the ladies next to me did also. We got into conversation. Yours out they are from Germany. They had 7:30 AM tickets for the Monet and had taken the train during the night for 4 hours, saw the show and ended up here for lunch. This was an out of the way place so not sure how that happened.  They explained that there was such a demand to see the art that the show was opened up 24 hours for the last 2 days. When I went on line in Nov. I never thot to scroll down as I assumed the 9-12 tickets (I had seen in Sept.) had already sold out and I wanted tickets before it all sold out. 

For breakfast I had an amazing tuna –so fresh but cooked – salad with bitter, lively greens, hard boiled eggs, feta cheese and a perfect dressing – not too sour nor too sweet!

Since this was my last full day in Paris I chose to go to the Louvre. Wow! Is that big!  I only went thru one area of the Richelieu Wing relaxing and enjoying the pictures and colors. I enjoy the Dutch Masters.

Of course, I was confused coming off the Metro as there are 3 ways to enter. Rick Steves suggested entering above ground to come in thru the glass pyramid. I didn’t manage that and was confused while walking underground by the signs to the Carrousel du Louvre.  What was that? Well, it is a 2 story huge underground shopping mall. Some high end, some touristy.  There was a tea store, of all things. I stuck my nose up as I went by. Why a tea house here?  When I came out of the museum I stopped into the tea store - Thé Mariage Frères. What an experience! Drawers floor to ceiling of dif teas.  One kind harvested in 1985 was only $100 an ounce. I didn’t get that one, but found an interesting one to try R-erh 2000. It turned out to be very mellow. When I went on line I learned it is a famous Tea Company… Ouch.

At the Louvre they will not check fur coats! So, many ladies in their Sunday showoff wore or carried them throughout the exhibit.  I enjoy checking my coat! Such a dif thing to do.

After the Louvre closed, I decided to go back to the Monet Exhibit as I still had my 2^nd ticket and maybe the lines had slowed down by now.  I Metro’ed over to the Grand Palais by 7:30 pm (19:30) and immediately walked to the correct line. The first Security man to greet me was the same nice man who had helped me yesterday. He recognized me as he looked at me and then looked back at the ticket, grimaced, and signaled me on thru. Not sure he was happy I was off time 2 days in a row… It was more crowded tonight than I thot it would be. Later I heard many of the staff volunteered extra hours thru the night to be sure as many people could see it as possible. This was the second to last day. When I got to the front of this line that will let me in the entrance the Security man had limited English, but he communicated well. He said, pointing at the time on the ticket, “You know?! You know?!”  I did my sheepish oops look and pleaded I thot fewer people would be here later in the day… He let me in with one more, “You know?”

This time thru I knew where I was going and did not get an audio program. I just meandered slowly thru enjoying the sequence and progression of his art as well as the joyous colors.  I stood or sat long times in front of favorites. He painted 30 haystacks sometimes several at a time focusing on the light play upon the colors as the light changed thru the day. Many paintings of Popular trees in a row also.  He was a very prolific artist.  The very huge 20’X10’ panels I saw years ago in Boston of lilies were not there, but many other large works were, tho none that large.  Interesting, my sister’s Christmas thank you card has the Magpie on it. I saw the original of it there.  Looked just as great! Many artists of that period were painting white snow scenes. His according to the audio was the only one with life in it – a simple Magpie.  

It was after 9 when I took 2 Metros back to my hotel.  Metro was still full of people! Amazing ! And, arriving every 2-3 minutes.  Stayed up late pacing for departure demain.

Monday  Got up early to be ready on time for the shuttle van. Had my last Omelet Fromage at a dif café as my regular was not open that early 7:30 ish.  At Café du Marche where they have fresh oysters all day long I had my omelet with Café Parisian or Café Crème. Perfect!  Interesting, the omelets usually come as the only thing on the plate. At this restaurant they filled half the plate with fresh butter lettuce with a dressing that was neither sweet nor sour. This at 7:30 AM!! It blended perfectly with the lettuce. And, it was perfect for my mouth after the rich cheese and egg. Yum! I miss those omelets… L  No egg beaters, low fat cheese, or margarine here.

At the airport my checked suitcase was over. I knew it was but I did not want to carry my coat etc. The clerk looked at me; the baggage handler looked at me and back at the clerk who shrugged his shoulders. I quickly said my heavy coat was inside and off it went. Boy, I am lucky! Even on the plane I was taken care of when the seat I hcose for legroom was smaller and half the leg room was missing because of the emergency door. When I complained the steward showed me a great seat. I was happy all the 9.5 hours home or was it 10.5? Saw 3 movies this time and enjoyed my neighbor.

Bon nuit, mis amigos. Claudette

DINNER ON THE NIGHT CRUISE OF THE SEINE

DINERS CROISIÈRES = NIGHT CRUISE ON THE SEINE with DINNER

I promised I would get back with the menu. The whole 2+ hour cruise from Norte Dame past the Eiffel Tower with all its blinking lights and back including dinner was 49€ and well worth it.  The lights were amazing!  Even the bateau had lights on top to illuminate the underside of the bridges.

I found it ironic that 2 of the desserts I had just made yesterday were incorporated as appetizers. 

This is the Autumn – Winter Menu. The bauteau (boat) had glass windows, a complete bar, and was heated. Yay!

They presented 4 different appetizers on a 12” square white plate. The éclair was maybe 2” long and delish! Simple, elegant presentation. - - -

Caroline au saumon fumé, coco râpée = Mini smoked salmon éclair with grated coconut

Crème brûlée au parmesan, tomates confites et basilic = Crème brulée with parmesan cheese decorated with slow-roasted tomatoes and basil

Gaspacho de légumes de saison = Seasonal vegetable gazpacho (each piece was exactly the same size ¼” cubes!)

Tartare de Roseval, chips de Pastrami = Roseval potato tartare with thin crisp Pastrami chips on top

The main course choices were:

Marbré de volaille aux éclats de noisettes, violette de pommes de terre, méli-mélo de legumes = Marbled chicken filet with hazelnut pieces, potato violet, medley of vegetables.  (The lady had this and said it was delicious. I think these were purple potatoes.)

OR Filet de Sandre au jus d’écrevisses, vermicelli de riz = Pike Perch fillet in crayfish sauce, rice vermicelli. (I had this and it melted in my mouth! Loved it presented atop vermicelli.)

OR Pavé de boeuf au parfum de truffe, blinis de pommes de terre, brochette de légumes (+6€) = Truffle flavoured slab of beef, potato blinis, vegetable skewer. (+$9)

AND FOR DESSERT another 12” square white platter with this Assortiment de desserts propose par le chef:

Mini rocher des îles = Mini coconut cake

Minestrone de fruits = Fruit soup (Again cut perfectly uniformly ¼” cubes. I could do this)

Croustillant praliné au chocolat = Chocolate praline crunch (Perfection!)

Ananas rôti aux épices douces = Lightly spiced roasted pineapple (Great!)

My new friend from New Zealand went walking across the Seine on the well lit pedestrian bridge towards the Louvre and I found a Metro to take back to my hotel – had to transfer once, but they come along every 2 minutes.5

THURS., FRI., & SAT. L'Open Tour Bus

Thank you for your comments and emails about my trip. It is fun to hear from y'all.

This is a great tour bus with 4 dif routes and the ability to get on and off as well as switch routes.  Thurs., about 4, after walking around the city, I hopped  on board a L'Open bus at the Place de la Concorde in front of the Hotel Crillon facing the Obelisque.  I paid for 2 days - much cheaper - and they gave me an extra day because it was so late.  They stop at 6 pm which is great for seeing some of the lights. I really had not seen much of Paris since my travel had been on the zippy Metro.  They give you earplugs to plug in at your seat and dial up your language to hear the running commentary. Fun! Easy!

As I got on a lady from New Zealand also boarded. Of course, we went up on top in the freezing weather - probably low single digits °C!  My new gloves might have been freezing..  Best pics are up there.  So, we saw the Champs - Elysees, Arch de Triumph, Eiffel Tower, etc. I had planned to also get a ticket for the dinner cruise that night to see the lights.  Now, she had been traveling for 4 weeks with a friend staying in London and snowboarding in Austria! On impulse she flew to Paris for about 24 hours.  She wanted to see the lights also, so we went together. You can just imagine me huffing and puffing up and down steps as we took 2 Metros to the Bateux docks to get there on time! She was in shape! On the ship it was great to have someone to chat with in English.  She made pleasant company of the cruise.

Wow! What great food!  3 courses. I don't have the menu with me. Will get back to you on that. But, it included éclairs and creme brulée in the appetizers!

Fri. and today I walked 20 min. from my hotel to a L'Open Bus stop in front of the Hotel des Invalides - a beautiful structure with 12 huge cannons in front. Yesterday I went around the south part of Paris hopping off to eat at La Coupole which was a must according to Barbara. Some books said it was a tourist trap. Not so! It is huge like the old Clifton's Cafeteria with art covering the walls and ceiling and full of Parisians!  All having a delightful time.  As is typical, crowded together.  I had a perfect Cosmopolitan at 2 in the afternoon!  Then crabmeat on avocado slices with a bitter salad. Perfect blend.  Salmon en Papel followed served on vermicelli and vegies. Of course, I had to have Crepe Suzettes after I saw them flamed for the lady next to me!  Could not have been better.

I hopped back on L'Open to travel around Notre Dame and hopped off in Saint Michel to look for one of Joan's stores.  Well, I lost the street.  Found an awesome chocolate store tho. When I did find Joan's book's store it had changed hands 8 months ago!  I got to wander thru lots of narrow fun streets tho.

By now I had to go to the bathroom and there were none I could see. I knew I couldn't make it back to my hotel in time with 2 Metro changes and a 3 block walk...  So, I had to stop in a Bistro for a drink. It was REALLY cold by now! I passed a Tourist Store with thermometers showing 3°C!!! Is that low 30's? My new gloves were not warm enuf!!!  That's because they are blue!!!  It is dark out now. I came out of an alley to find a cute place right on Place St. Michel.  Someone knew English. I ordered an Irish Coffee and went right to the bathrooms downstairs.  Great choice!  Cute waiter!

Today, I hopped on the L'Open bus before and after the exhibit getting to see the rest of the areas along the Seine, passed last night's bistro - great spot, Montparnasse, Saint-Germain, Montmarte Grands Blvds ending at the Gare de Nord Train Station. Awesome!  I think the fast train from London comes in here.  Busy place! From there I Metrod to a health food cafe, the Hard Rock Cafe, and home.  The low today was 6.5°C. Probably warmed up because of the rain. Hard to ride up top the bus in the rain...  They say it might snow Monday! Can't wait!  Claudette

Au revoir, Claudette

SAT., THE HARD ROCK CAFE

Had to go you know. 

While teaching I always bot HRC teddy bears to bring back to the classroom to try to show the kids if you finish school and get a good job you too can travel the world - even if I can't write a coherent sentence!  I also judge the chocolate shakes on a 1- 10 scale 10 perfect;  Paris' chocolate shake is a 10!! Very deep chocolate flavor, nice and thick. 

One other HRC shake was this good. Gotta find my notes as to where.  Thot it was Cairo, but that was where I was sick for 2 days because I had chicken nuggets - I never do that! - but they were served on lettuce leaves. A REAL no-no! 

San Jose, Costa Rica's HRC shake was a 2! Yuk!  Got some nice gifts including a teddy bear for my grandson.  Memorbilia was limited. It is in the Montmartre Area, so it was lively outside.

Rocker Claudette

SAT. THE MONET EXHIBIT - finally!

OK, so the good news is, it didn't snow today!  But it did get down to 6.5°C and it was raining waiting outside and leaving the exhibit at the Grand Palais. It was huge, huge, grande!!! The largest in 30 years they said.

Now, for the bad news... you know how the man at the Palais on Tues. assured me to come back on Sat. No problem. This was at 6 pm as the exhibit was closing that night.  Soooo, I ASSUMED he meant Sat. aft as Tues they closed at 6,  oh no!  Today I get there early and each line's security person points to the 01:30!  5France is on a 24 hour clock. No one spoke English, so they kept sending me to dif line. This, in the rain. 'Course, there was also a clarinet player performing for the crowds in the rain!  By the 5th security person, I am sent to a short line. This new security gentleman spoke clear English and told me no problem, just stay in this line.  I did and within 30 minutes I was admitted in.  Yay!!!  Would you believe it was the time I was supposed to go in!?!

Once inside, while checking my coat, I saw the pictures showing we had to check our cameras and hats.  They were strict about cameras. One lady in the exhibit had hers in her hand. A Security person came over and had her show him her pictures on the camera!  You can't tear out the film anymore. Guess he  would have made her delete them if she had used it.  Well, I tried to check my classy 40's style teal felt cloche hat as per the picture, but the attendant wouldn't take it as someone translated to me.  When I looked at the pictures from across the room I could tell it was a motorcycle helmet!!! Oy voy!

The exhibit was more than worth the trip. It went thru Monet's life via his pictures. It was so huge it took 4+ hours to travel thru.  It was crowded, but as a whole very subdued. As typically French, they never quite bump into each other.  Foreigners do!  The French rule according to Rick Steve's is to be polite to others and talk in very hushed tones - even on the Metro.

So, now, I have to decide to take the Metro in tonight for my 1 AM Sunday ticket OR stand in line anytime Sunday!  At least I know which line!

Until tomorrow! Claudette

MY WEDNESDAY in PARIS - Shopping

Wow!  Is this ever the time to be in Paris!  January has SOLDES (sales) with 50-70% off these 2 weeks.  I walked 40 minutes to la Bon Marche - a department store with everything. It covers at least 2 blocks.  I bot teal leather gloves to wear on the Metro.  It isn't fashion. It is for sanitation purposes.  heh-heh!

The fashions to see are amazing!  Gotta come back next year!

On the walk over everywhere there are great old buildings to photograph and wonderful little stores. Found an amazing Expresso Machine Store that was very busy. Kinda like our cell phone stores are where you wait in line for a long time. They were passing out cookies they sell to munch with your expresso.  Heather, they use little containers like yours. These machines were 300 € and up!! Very up!

Took the Metro back. I am beginning to figure it out better.  I sneak looks at the map or make a list of stops ahead of time.  Now I have to keep track of used tickets. I accidentlally put a used one in my pocket with a new one and it didn't work. The employee assured me it  was used when I couldn't go thru!  I found the new one!

Off to cooking class tonight.